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Guideline of Makeup Color

The Opposite Color Theory is one of the strongest theories that I use when doing makeup. And I find that it is one of the least known by women across the country. This theory alone can simplify makeup techniques like you wouldn’t believe. The concept is, that by applying the theory of the color wheel to makeup colors, you can visually enhance or subdue a color, skin tone or discoloration on your skin. You can then hide skin discolorations, enhance the color of your eyes, intensify the color of your wardrobe, all just by applying the correct Opposite Color Theory.

The Opposite Color Theory works by applying the opposite color that is directly across from the other on the color wheel.

The opposite colors are:




When putting two Opposite Colors on TOP of each other, you can subdue, soften, even hide a color.

When applying an Opposite Color NEXT to each other, you enhance, bring out, and brighten a color.

Follow this guideline to determine which colors you would use where on your skin.

makeup guideline Guideline of Makeup Color

Opposite Color


use green to hide red


Use orange to enhance blue eyes | hide undereye circles | bruises | birthmarks | veins


use yellow calm undereye circles | bruises | birthmarks | veins

For example, by using the opposite color GREEN over a RED tone, you’ll notice that the color red underneath will calm down, and in most cases almost disappear. And here’s an update. To hide redness better, use YELLOW. Yellow is a much easier color to work with on the skin, easier to apply and blend in. In foundation shades, red and yellow are at the opposite ends of the spectrum. Most foundations become a shade darker by adding more red to it. In theory, this doesn’t work because when skin gets darker, it becomes more brown….as in a suntan. The red is a sunburn, not really the color you want to match to. To darken any foundation color, do so by adding a few drops of soft brown. So lets say, if your skin has a red tone to it, apply the opposite color of green (or better yet, yellow), to calm it down. Do you see what we’re getting at? For best results? Use a soft pastel colored eyeshadow to tone down the skin, or a liquid Skin Corrector made just for this purpose. Use either one always underneath foundation. Otherwise you’d have the color on your skin!

You can also use the same method of the Opposite Color technique to bring out and enhance the colors in your skin and facial features. For example, to bring out BLUE eyes, use the opposite color ORANGE or any orange based eye shadow to bring out blue eyes. Try this experiment if you have blue eyes. Use blue eyeshadow on one eye, and an orange toned shadow on the other. Which eye looks bluer? The orange-tint eye shadow will look bluer because of the opposite color theory, and with startling results. Once you’ve seen this transformation, you will never go back to wearing blue eyeshadow again.

blue eye shadow Guideline of Makeup Color

For the color GREEN, and for green eyes, the opposite color is RED, but for the better results, try an eyeshadow in the red color family, like purple, pink, mauve. Stay away from straight red shadow, as it can bring out the blood vessels in your eye and make them only look tired and bloodshot. Other colors taken from red are pink, violet, purple, rust, burgundy….. All these colors have a touch of red in them so you can still use these colors. Look for any color with a red tone to it, for example, a brown shadow with a RED undertone to it. Use one of those colors on one green eye, and green shadow on the other. You’ll get the same striking effect.

green eye makeup Guideline of Makeup Color

Remember, you are not limited to using only the exact opposite color. Understand that the results may not be as startling as the pure color, but you will still notice the difference in using a tint of the opposite color, or a color in the same color family. Try practicing with this color principle and you will discover a vast amount of different colors and looks that you can use to enhance your features. Look at the listed colors below to see what colors you can use for your opposite color theory.


  • Use the opposite color underneath your foundation if it is a color that you want to hide.
  • Use the opposite color over your foundation next to the color that you want to enhance.

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